My memories of Provincetown are like a series of snapshots that begin when I’m five. Its 1961. I’m walking on the wharf with my father. The water looks black and deep and oily. I’m afraid, wondering what it would be like to fall in. But he holds my hand tightly and I feel safe.
That night my mother, father, and I sit on a bench watching people stroll by. My mother gives me my first taste of fried scallops. I love their creamy sweetness. My parents are tan and smiling.
Its 1974. I’m a college student strolling Commercial Street with its colorful flags, artsy boutiques, and eccentric people. I chambermaid at a nearby motel. Although I hate making beds and scrubbing toilets, it subsidizes drinks at Governor Bradford’s and buying gauzy sun dresses. Everywhere I go, “Waterloo” by Abba is playing from transistor radios.
It’s 1980. I married my college sweetheart and Randy and I honeymoon on the Cape. We stay in one of those little white cottages that dot the outskirts of P-town. One night we make our way to the wharf. I think of my father holding my hand when I was little to keep me safe. In contrast, my new husband pretends to throw me in. We drink white wine and eat mussels in a little bistro off Pearl Street.
Its 1996. We bring our two little boys for the first time to Provincetown. This time we’re loaded down with strollers and juice boxes. We have lunch at the Lobster Pot and ice cream at Lewis’s, which has now become a yearly ritual.
That first visit with our sons, Randy and I place bets on how long it will take our two boys to notice P-town is different from Easton, Connecticut. Provincetown is a place where men are free to hold hands and women kiss on the streets.
The years pass.They notice.
Its 2013. I’m with my writing group, staying with old friends, and meeting new ones. Over fifty years have passed since that first walk on the wharf with my dad. The hands that kept me safe now tremble with Parkinson’s disease. My mother is my father’s constant caretaker.
Randy and I celebrated our 33rd anniversary. Our boys are young men who now drive to P-town on their own.
All the seasons of our lives have happened in Provincetown. This village is like an old, crazy friend we must visit each year, a touchstone to generations coming and going, to the passage of time.
Someday I hope to return with grandchildren. Like my father, I’ll walk with them on the wharf. I’ll hold their hands and keep them safe.
Have you been to Provincetown? Comments are always welcome and if you like, please share. Thank you!
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Andrew
I practically grew up in Provincetown. Every summer, my parents would pack us up in the car and we’d drive up from Florida. My brother, sister, and I learned to sail at the WERC, my dad would take us fishing, we’d spend days out at Race Point swimming and flying kites and ending the day with a small cookout while my aunt painted the sunset…
It’s such an integral part of our family’s story. My parents met there, my dad worked with Flyer to restore the Rose Dorothea in the library…
Anyway, thank you for sharing your story and inviting us all to share ours.
Laurie Stone
Andrew, Your childhood memories in P-town sound wonderful! Haven’t been to the Cape in a while, so want to return someday. Thank you for sharing.
Alana
I remember a sometimes stormy trip out to South Dakota when my son was 12 and already had a teen attitude. In between fights we did a lot of sightseeing. Now, 22 years later, my son wants to take his girlfriend and her 12 year old son to South Dakota. They are planning the trip. I’m loving the thought of that. P.S. I’ve only been to P-Town once. It was 2008, a day trip and we were in the middle of a heat wave. I hope to return one day!
Laurie Stone
Alana, I love how our kids pick the same vacation spots as adults they went to as children. I take it as a great compliment.
Diane
I SO love this, Laurie! Family traditions CANNOT be overstated! We’re gearing up for our annual family trip to Banff. This year, the first of our grandchildren will bring her husband! And another generation starts…
Laurie Stone
Diane, I never heard of Banff until you wrote about it. Sounds ideal, like Cape Cod.
Carol Cassara
I’ve never been. But my lesbian friends LOVE it! I need to go one day.
Laurie Stone
Carol, You’d love artsy, colorful P-Town.
Lauren
I didn’t have this growing up but it sounds lovely. I have only been to P-Town once.
Laurie Stone
Lauren, Such a fun place. You’d like it. Great shopping too!
Diane
Very high up on my Bucket List! Thank you, Laurie!
Laurie Stone
Diane, Very cool place. I think you’d like it.
Diane
I love traditions! Especially those that have already spanned generations…
When travel is again allowed, I MUST visit your Provincetown.
It sounds like my kind of place!
Laurie Stone
Diane, Provincetown is so much fun. Come and visit sometime! We were supposed to go to the Cape this year, but cancelled because of Covid. Oh well, maybe next year.
Jennifer
Growing up, we didn’t have a place that we returned to each year. Instead, my father wanted to take us to different places, especially if they had a historical significance. I can say that I’ve been to Gettysburg more times than I’ve been to P-Town and P-Town is significantly closer and has beaches so I can’t figure that one out at all.
Laurie Stone
Jennifer, I like visiting historical places so I love your father’s idea. P-Town also has interesting history, one of the oldest places on the Cape.
Haralee
P-Town is a special place.The galleries are terrific. I love how you wound your life with the touchstone of P-Town .
Laurie Stone
Haralee, I agree, the galleries are great in P-Town. So are the restaurants. Thanks for the kind words.
Rena
I have an ex-Randy and a son Randy! I don’t think I’ve ever been to Provincetown!
Laurie Stone
Rena, I recommend Provincetown to anyone! Its so much fun and so unique.
Renee
I love this..I have never been…but now you make me want to go…maybe I will stop on next visit to Vermont to see my daughter and grands…and I hope you will take your grands there too!
Laurie Stone
Renee, You should definitely go. P-Town is such a fun, special place.
Diane
Oh, my goodness. This brought tears! We have our annual spot, too. Banff. Where childhood memories brush together with growing up memories and then watching-the-next-generation-grow-up memories. Now I do go there with my grandchildren. Paradise indeed.
Laurie Stone
Diane, I love having a vacation place that generations of the family enjoy. Its so nice. Glad you have your Banff. It sounds like a lovely family tradition.
michelle
I have a Randy too. Everyone should have a Randy. 🙂
Laurie Stone
Michelle, From what I’ve read, your Randy is just as funny as mine!
jeremy@thirstydaddy
I’ve been a few times but not as much as I should. We are big fans of Plymouth. Its great to have a place like this to revisit and reminisce
Laurie Stone
Jeremy, Haven’t been to Plymouth since I was a kid. I’ll have to give it another look-see. We do love Provincetown. You have to go back!
Lea
Love this piece and the way you set it up…the time passing, the hands along the way. Memories and life phases….such a journey.
Laurie Stone
Thanks so much, Lea!