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Almost forty years ago, Randy and I wanted to jump in a van and drive across America. But work, family, and life intervened and we never did…until this past week. We took Amtrak’s Southwest Chief from Chicago to Los Angeles. It was during this amazing journey, I learned several surprising things…

My husband and I can survive days in a place the size of a walk-in closet – We knew space would be tight, so we got the best cabin we could. It was just big enough for our own bathroom, two bunks, and a small tray-sized table by the window.

That first afternoon, we sipped wine and ate cheese and crackers, watching the vastness of the Illinois countryside go by, its flatness so different from hilly Connecticut. I was already hooked.

I could actually climb onto an upper bunk — Each night our handsome steward, Roman, somehow turned our chair and couch into beds. I still don’t know how he did it. And of course, I drew the upper one.

As the train chugged through Iowa that first evening, I realized getting up by ladder was no problem. It was getting down. Remember that Lucy episode where she’s trying to be a ballerina and ends up hopelessly tangled and upside down at the barre? That was me trying to use the bathroom at 1:00 a.m. There I am, hanging like a fruit-eating bat, while Randy sleeps blissfully away (more on that later).

Finally, mission accomplished.

Showers were challenging. – Yes, I’m spoiled. But the bathroom was a metal tube the size of a phone booth with toilet and hand-held shower two inches apart.

As we chugged through the Missouri plains, Randy was brave enough to pick up that nozzle, but I couldn’t. Having a toilet staring back at me while shampooing threw me for a loop. I figured I’d wait till California.

Amtrak workers are amazing – You think of the train as a gently rocking conveyance, and often it is. But there are many track switches and moments where you grab for anything steady. I gained a new respect for the always smiling, nimble-footed dining staff.

As we ate lunch — enjoying our first sight of Colorado mesas — I realized that although the food will never win a Michelin star, it was surprisingly good, considering it comes from… well, a train.

There’s no “One America” – By the red hills and majestic mountains of New Mexico, I saw there are many Americas – we’re a breathtakingly diverse mix of terrains, heritages, accents, and ethnicities.

In this one rail trip, we went from the skyscrapers of Chicago to the flat, endless plains of the Midwest to the mesas of Colorado to the redstone hills of New Mexico to the rugged deserts of Arizona, and finally to the palm trees of Los Angeles. No wonder we Americans have trouble seeing eye to eye. There are so many of us. And we’re so varied.

Randy can sleep anywhere (and yes, it annoys me) – What is it about men? On their first inhale lying down they’re asleep and snoring. I’m lying on the top berth, staring at the ceiling, listening to my husband, jealous.

And yes, at times, sleeping on a train is like being rocked in a giant cradle. But at others, it’s like being trapped in the tumble cycle of a washing machine, jarring and jolting. Meanwhile, my husband slumbered through the whole thing.

We’re still smart-ass kids – Randy and I met in college over 40 years ago. We loved to joke around, with constant banter on music, Bugs Bunny cartoons, and of course, people.

Last week, as we chugged through the Arizona desert, I saw how we’re still those smart-ass kids, sharing observations on some of our more “colorful” fellow passengers. (No doubt they were doing the same about us). I realized what brought us together back then was a shared, wry view of life. We still have that.

Two days later… it was over. — As the train pulled into L.A. with its dazzling blue skies, Randy and I looked at each other. We had finally made it across America. Despite myself, my eyes grew misty.

And I saw then this wasn’t just a journey of miles, but of years  – college, young married days, the birth of our sons, the death of beloved parents and friends, work, and now retirement.

Those two kids who wanted to jump in that van have made a good life together. And despite our older bodies and graying hair, I realized they’re still here. I gave my husband a hug. “We made it,” I said.

He gave me a hug back as the train eased to a stop.

 

Ever travel cross-country? Comments are always welcome and if you like, please share. Thank you.

Comments(38)

    • Susan

    • 6 years ago

    Wow, sounds like an awesome trip. My other half gets motion sickness so I doubt we would ever be able to travel cross country unless we drive. Congrats on your successful lengthy relationship!

      • Laurie Stone

      • 6 years ago

      Susan, Thanks so much. If your husband gets motion sickness, this wouldn’t be the trip. By the end, I was happy to get on terra firma again. It was just the right length.

  1. Oh, I LOVED this! And my dream is to travel completely across the country on the train!
    P.S. I think we’d get on well together, your husby, me and mine. We, too , love to joke around and there is always a Bugs Bunny quip to cover most anything . . .

    1. Hmmm . . . in reading that, I realize I forgot to put in the word ‘you’. An important word. Especially when it sounds as though I’m leaving someone out! 🙂 Eep!

        • Laurie Stone

        • 6 years ago

        No worries! And I’d love to travel with another fun couple. Let’s go!

      • Laurie Stone

      • 6 years ago

      Diane, Sounds like you and your husband are a lot like me and Randy. So funny…

  2. Laurie,

    Where’s your “like” button for your site? I enjoyed this post very much!

      • Laurie Stone

      • 6 years ago

      Tomi, Just installed it, with your helpful guidance. Thanks so much!!

  3. Every time I read one of your beautiful, heartfelt and fun pieces I think how special you guys are! So happy you were able to make one of your life dreams come true! Thanks for sharing your writing! Xo

      • Laurie Stone

      • 6 years ago

      Colette, Thanks so much for your kind words, as usual. Would love to get together one of these days!

  4. Hi Laurie! Congratulations on passing forty years together. My husband and I just celebrated our 40th too. When you’ve been together so long and have gone through so much during that time, it’s difficult to imagine life without each other huh? And what a fun adventure across country. My husband and I actually did drive across the U.S. a couple of times…and yes, we had a VW bus! Regradless of how one does it, I think it is a wonderful way to realize how diverse and beautiful our country is. ~Kathy

      • Laurie Stone

      • 6 years ago

      Kathy, Sounds like we live in parallel universes. You guys did the VW bus trip! Very cool. So glad Randy and I finally got to make this journey. It was very special.

  5. This sounds like a LOT of fun! The cramped space surely brought you closely together…LITERALLY! 🙂

      • Laurie Stone

      • 6 years ago

      Darlene, We actually survived three days in a cramped space. It was fun, glad its not all the time!

  6. Sounds fun except the hanging like a bat eating fruit image! My husband and I have taken road trips cross country a couple of times. We both love road trips. I always say if the US was Europe it would be made up of many countries, NewEngland, The South, Louisiana is it’s own country as is California and Texas, etc!

      • Laurie Stone

      • 6 years ago

      Haralee, This country is so vast and multi-cultured, it almost could be like Europe. Not a bad idea. Maybe we’d get along better.

  7. OMGosh that wounds like a wonderful trip! I’ve always wanted to take a train trip and it’s still on the bucket list. But how do we get a cabin with two lower bunks? I’m not sure I can haul my carcass up into an upper bunk.

      • Laurie Stone

      • 6 years ago

      Shelley, I’m in better shape than my disabled husband, but found it challenging. Going up was okay. It was the going down. Still, I recommend the experience. Its pretty awesome.

  8. Thanks for sharing! Sounds like a great way to travel, but my husband and I would KILL each other! 😉

      • Laurie Stone

      • 6 years ago

      Lauren, We had a few tense moments, I’ll admit. But once the air was set and terms negotiated, things worked out.

  9. I am taking that same trip in a few weeks. You are the first one I’ve found who has any experience with a long train ride. Oddly, the trip now takes four days because it goes through Texas.

    You’ve humanized it for me, Laurie. It sounds like they made up the rooms daily? No problem plugging in electrical appliances (we have the same room you booked)? Did they provide shampoo and soap or do I bring my own?

    Hmm…

      • Laurie Stone

      • 6 years ago

      Jacqui, I found it very enjoyable. Yes, they “make up” the rooms, meaning they turn the beds back into chairs and vice versa every day. (Still don’t know how they do it). I think I had to bring my own toiletries. Electrical outlets were there. We had the biggest berth and I’m glad. The rest were like phone booths with no private bath. It would’ve been difficult.

  10. Love this. We want to travel by train, and I like how you compared the two journeys!

      • Laurie Stone

      • 6 years ago

      Lynne, Loved it. A beautiful way to see the country.

  11. Very cool. This is something I want to do someday. My hubby is 6’4″ and I worry he won’t fit in the berth!

      • Laurie Stone

      • 6 years ago

      Leah, Randy is 6’5″! He was pleasantly surprised the beds were long enough.

  12. Did you just say what is wrong with us men? I too dont have a problem sleeping anywhere.Thanks for sharing your amazing moment with us

      • Laurie Stone

      • 6 years ago

      Olayiwola, Laughing. Yes, so jealous you guys seem to fall asleep anywhere, anytime. Oh, to unplug from the world so easily.

  13. Still my dream!

      • Laurie Stone

      • 6 years ago

      You should, Diane.

  14. LOVE that you are doing FUN things with your hubby! We have been married 33 years and have always loved dating and adventuring. With only one minor child still at home (of six) we can do this more. (But I’m in no rush to rush the kids out. LOVE having them around!) And the sleep thing. My husband is like that, too. I am NOT.

      • Laurie Stone

      • 6 years ago

      Alison, This was a wonderful trip. I highly recommend it.

  15. This is wonderful. Brings back good memories of the time I went cross-country by train – Cleveland to LA, and then later, LA to Philadelphia.

    Did not have a cabin – that sounds heavenly.

      • Laurie Stone

      • 5 years ago

      Beverly, I think a cabin is the only way we survived this trip. Yours sounds great!

  16. You made it! In more ways than one! 🙂
    I love this post, Laurie! We’re determined, when life gets a little more normal, that we are going across Canada by train. You two can come with us!

      • Laurie Stone

      • 4 years ago

      Diane, I’d love that! Funny how even though you don’t meet someone in person, you still feel a connection!

  17. Yes, absolutely! Shocking, indeed!

      • Laurie Stone

      • 4 years ago

      Carol, Ha ha!

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